Koh Chang Travel Guide: Beaches, Waterfalls & Where to Stay

Koh Chang at a glance

Koh Chang—also written Ko Chang—is in Trat Province in eastern Thailand, not far from the Cambodian border. The Tourism Authority of Thailand describes it as Thailand’s second-largest island, around 217 square kilometres in area, with roughly 70% of the island covered by rainforest. The wider Mu Ko Chang Marine National Park covers about 650 square kilometres across the archipelago; around 70% of that protected area is offshore. Those are two different measurements: the island’s land area and the wider marine park should not be confused.

The island’s forested hills rise behind a chain of west-coast beaches. Most visitor areas are linked by the road that follows the west coast; it does not form a simple road loop around every shoreline. A map can make two places look close while the actual drive is slower, winding or requires returning along the same route. The Tourism Authority of Thailand’s Koh Chang overview is useful for the island’s geography and named attractions.

What makes Koh Chang different—and what that means for your trip

Travel writing often splits an island into neat labels: lively west coast, “authentic” east coast, wild interior. Those labels can help you orient yourself, but they can also flatten a place. Koh Chang is not a set built for visitors. People work here, run restaurants, fish, worship, travel between villages and get on with ordinary life while tourism moves around them.

My connection with the island began through family and hospitality. My father had restaurants and bars on White Sand Beach, and I spent many of the years after first coming to Thailand around 2010 living and staying on Koh Chang. Before I met Natalia, I had already come to know the island through time in different areas rather than through one short holiday. Over the years, Natalia and I have lived in every area of Koh Chang at one point or another, some for longer than others. That is why I know the island so well, particularly White Sand Beach and Lonely Beach.

That experience helps me explain how the areas feel and how the island works day to day; it does not make an old memory a current timetable or a guarantee about today’s services. For temples, treat them as active places of worship. Ask before photographing people or ceremonies, and give fishing villages the same consideration you would give any community where people are going about their day.

Getting to Koh Chang from Bangkok and Trat

For the normal mainland route, you travel to the Trat area and cross to Koh Chang by car ferry. Your practical choice is usually between travelling overland from Bangkok or flying to Trat and continuing by road to the ferry pier.

Bus or minivan from Bangkok

Bus and minivan services operate from Bangkok towards Trat and the ferry piers. Some package tickets combine the road journey with the ferry or an island transfer. Before paying, check the actual endpoint: Trat town, the mainland pier, the island pier or your accommodation. Those are different legs, and a ticket does not always include all of them.

Allow buffer time for Bangkok traffic, the pier transfer, waiting to board and the onward ride across Koh Chang. Avoid planning a tight connection to the last ferry of the day.

Fly to Trat, then transfer

Flying can shorten the mainland road journey, but the flight option is to Trat Airport on the mainland, not directly onto Koh Chang. From the airport, arrange a road transfer to the ferry pier, cross to Ao Sapporot and continue by road to your accommodation. The Tourism Authority of Thailand lists Bangkok Airways service to Trat. Check the Bangkok–Trat route and current flight times directly with Bangkok Airways, then confirm whether your transfer includes the ferry and the island-side journey. Compare the full door-to-door trip rather than flight time alone; schedules and transfer inclusions can change.

Ferry pier, crossing time and tickets

The Ferry Koh Chang car-ferry route connects Ao Thammachat on the mainland in Trat with Ao Sapporot (also written Ao Sapparot) on Koh Chang. The operator describes the crossing itself as around 30 minutes. Treat that as time on the water: queueing, loading, waiting for a departure and the onward road journey add to the overall trip.

Important current detail: Ferry Koh Chang’s October 2026 notice lists service from 06:30 to 18:30. Tickets cannot be bought online in advance; they are purchased with cash at the pier on the day. Departures are timetabled hourly, but boats may leave only when full. The same operator says Trat Ferry (formerly Centrepoint) has been suspended since July 2024. Older articles that still describe two regular car-ferry operators may therefore be out of date. Check the Ferry Koh Chang operator’s current timetable and ticket information again before your travel date.

Where to stay on Koh Chang: beaches and areas

Choosing a beach is not simply a question of finding the one with the best reputation. The main visitor areas run roughly from north to south, and accommodation location, road access and the way you plan to get around matter as much as the name on the booking page. Natalia and I have lived in every area of Koh Chang at one point or another; White Sand Beach and Lonely Beach are the places I know most deeply from those years.

White Sand Beach (Hat Sai Khao)

White Sand Beach is one of the island’s best-known visitor areas, with a broad mix of accommodation, restaurants, shops and everyday services. It is a practical first base if you want choices nearby and do not want every meal to require a transfer. My father had restaurants and bars here, so this is more than a beach name to me: it is an area I came to know through the people and hospitality businesses around it.

The high view shows how the beach sits beneath the island’s steep green ridge. At night the same landscape changes completely, with the dark mountain rising above the shore.

Good fit for: first-time visitors, shorter stays and travellers who value services and choice close by. In peak periods it can feel busier, and properties vary in how close they really are to the sand.

Klong Prao Beach

Klong Prao is a long stretch with resort choices and more room to spread out. It can work well for a slower beach stay, but check the exact property location and walking distance to food, shops and transport. Take care around river mouths and changing water conditions rather than assuming every part of the beach is equally suitable for swimming.

Good fit for: families, couples and travellers who want room to slow down.

Kai Bae Beach

Kai Bae has a mix of accommodation, restaurants and views towards small offshore islands. It balances convenience and a more relaxed pace, but parts of the shore can be rocky and roads become hillier farther south. Check the exact access to the beach if swimming from the property is important.

Good fit for: couples, families and travellers wanting a middle ground between busy and quiet.

Lonely Beach (Hat Tha Nam)

Lonely Beach is especially personal to us: it is where Natalia and I met in 2014. I know the area well from the years I spent on the island before we met and from the year we later lived here together. The village and the beach itself are not always the same thing when you are choosing accommodation, so check the exact location, walking distance, noise and road access. The area is known for a more social evening scene, but the beach is not uniformly sandy or suitable for swimming along its whole length.

These photographs show why it is worth looking beyond an area name: a sunny stretch of sand and a rocky section can both belong to the same beach area. Conditions also change with weather and season.

Good fit for: backpackers and visitors who specifically want a social atmosphere and evening options. It may be less suitable if you want a quiet family base directly beside a broad, gently sloping swimming beach.

Bailan and the southern west coast

Bailan and the southern west coast have quieter bays and fewer services than the northern beach areas. They can be restful if you are happy to arrange transport and travel farther for a wider choice of restaurants. Check whether the shoreline at your accommodation is sandy, rocky or best used for views rather than swimming.

Good fit for: travellers who prioritise quiet and do not need everything within walking distance.

Bang Bao and the southern coast

Bang Bao is a pier village on the south-western side of Koh Chang, with a working waterfront and boat-trip departures. It is not a long sandy beach to choose for everyday swimming. The view across the southern coast and the sunset over Bang Bao show a different side of the island from the northern visitor beaches. These are working places as well as visitor stops; go with respect and ask before photographing private spaces or people at work.

The east coast: Salak Phet and Salak Kok

Salak Phet and Salak Kok are separate east-coast areas, with a quieter, more spread-out feel than the main west-coast visitor strip. Services are further apart and road journeys take planning, so allow time rather than treating the east coast as a quick detour between beaches.

Before booking anywhere, check recent reviews for noise, actual beach access, stairs or steep roads, nearby food options and how you will get back after dinner. A room described as “beachfront” may still sit on a rocky section or beside a tidal channel.

Things to do in Koh Chang

Visit a waterfall

Klong Plu Waterfall is one of the island’s best-known waterfall visits and is listed by the Tourism Authority of Thailand. Access, water levels and swimming conditions vary with season and recent rainfall. Check park notices and posted rules before entering; do not assume a waterfall pool is safe in every condition. The TAT Koh Chang overview lists Klong Plu among the destination highlights.

Than Mayom Waterfall is another recognised nature stop on the east side. The Tourism Authority of Thailand’s Trat overview lists Namtok Than Mayom among the province’s highlights. Its east-side location may fit better with a planned island drive than a quick detour from a west-coast beach; check current park access and opening information before setting out.

Take a boat or snorkelling trip

Trips to nearby islands and marine areas are a major part of Koh Chang’s appeal. The islands visited, snorkel stops, departure points and season can differ by operator. Ask what is included, how long you will be at sea, what happens if the weather turns, and whether the operator provides correctly sized lifejackets. A “snorkelling trip” is not a guarantee of clear water or calm conditions.

Spend time in Bang Bao

Bang Bao’s pier and stilt-house setting make it a useful place to understand the island’s fishing and boat-trip connections. It is also a practical departure area for some sea excursions. Go with respect for people who live and work there: ask before photographing private spaces, and remember that not every pier or working area is a public viewing platform.

Explore temples and the east coast

Wat Salak Phet, Chao Por Koh Chang Shrine and the communities around Salak Phet offer a different perspective from the main beach strip. Dress respectfully at religious sites, follow signs, remove shoes where asked and ask permission before photographing worshippers or ceremonies. Allow more time for east-coast drives instead of fitting them between tightly scheduled beach stops.

Head farther south

The far south is not simply another stop on a quick beach-hopping circuit. The road, coastline and working areas feel different from the northern visitor beaches. One of our photographs was taken from a walking bridge beyond Bang Bao at the very southern end of the island. Treat it as a place to explore slowly and check local access rather than assuming every viewpoint or path is a formal attraction.

Food on Koh Chang: seafood, markets and dishes to look for

My early connection to Koh Chang runs through my father’s restaurant and bar work on White Sand Beach, so I have never thought of food as a list of “authentic” dishes detached from the people who make them. Seafood is an obvious part of eating around the island, particularly near coastal villages and piers, but a good meal does not need to be a grand waterfront occasion. Look at the menu, ask what is available that day, and remember that a small restaurant is a workplace as well as a place to eat.

Fresh fish, prawns and crab

Ask what arrived recently and how the price is calculated. For whole fish or seafood sold by weight, confirm the price and portion before ordering to avoid an awkward surprise at the bill.

Pla tod kamin

Turmeric-fried fish is a dish worth looking for on Thai menus. It is not unique to Koh Chang, so treat it as something to try if a kitchen makes it well rather than a guaranteed island speciality.

Hoi tod and garlic-fried squid

Hoi tod is a crispy oyster or mussel pancake-style dish; pla muek tod krathiam is squid fried with garlic. Menu names and preparations vary by restaurant and region.

Thai curries and salads

Order what looks freshly prepared and ask about chilli level if needed. If you have a food allergy, explain it clearly and do not rely only on a dish name or a menu translation.

Where to eat

Bang Bao is an obvious stop for seafood and a pier-side setting. Kai Bae and Klong Prao have a broader mix of Thai kitchens, cafés and resort restaurants; the northern beach areas offer more choice within a compact area. On the east coast, plan your meal around the drive because options are more spread out.

For more Thai food context, browse our Thailand food and travel hub, our Thai recipes for families and the Thai ingredients guide. Those articles help with dishes and ingredients beyond the island; they are not a claim that every dish is a Koh Chang speciality.

Getting around Koh Chang and staying safe

Songthaews, transfers and walking

Shared songthaews (pickup-truck taxis) and accommodation-arranged transfers are used around the main visitor areas. Routes, prices and availability vary; ask the fare and destination before boarding. If you are staying farther south or on the east side, arrange the return journey before you set off rather than assuming a vehicle will be waiting when you finish.

Motorbikes and roads

The island’s hills, bends, changing road surfaces and rain can make riding more demanding than a flat resort area. The UK Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office also highlights Thailand’s high road-accident risk, particularly involving motorcycles. Do not rent or ride a motorbike unless you are properly licensed, insured for that vehicle and genuinely experienced; wear a helmet and never ride after drinking. If those conditions are not met, use an arranged transfer or shared transport. A scooter is not the default recommendation for every visitor or family.

Swimming, boats and waterfalls

As parents, we do not call a beach “safe for children” as if that label settles the question. The conditions that matter are the ones on the day: flags, waves, currents, supervision, access and how quickly you can leave if the weather changes. The UK Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office warns about strong riptides, advises following beach warning flags—especially red flags—and highlights strong currents around waterfalls and rivers. Read its Thailand safety guidance alongside local advice.

• Check warning flags, waves and local advice each time you swim. Do not enter the water when red flags or other warnings advise against it.
• Children need active, close supervision near the sea, rivers and waterfall pools. Calm-looking water is not a reliable safety test.
• For boat trips, check lifejackets, the weather cancellation policy and the exact places visited before paying.
• For forest walks, check the trail’s current access and difficulty; use an appropriate guide for routes beyond your experience.

Health, cash and essentials

Carry medication you rely on, sun protection, insect repellent and drinking water. Check your travel-insurance wording for motorbike use, medical care and sea activities before you need it. Thai baht cash remains useful for small vendors and is required for Ferry Koh Chang tickets under the operator’s October 2026 notice; confirm current payment arrangements before travelling.

When to visit Koh Chang

There is no honest way to promise the weather for a particular beach day months in advance. The Tourism Authority of Thailand’s Koh Chang seasonal overview, published on 9 January 2020, describes November to February as the cooler winter period, March and April as the hotter summer period, and May to October as the rainy season. Its Trat destination guide separately explains that the southwest monsoon can affect sea transport and make the western coast wet and stormy. These are broad regional patterns, not a forecast or a guarantee of sunshine, a safe swim or a boat trip that will run; check current forecasts and operator notices.

The Thai Meteorological Department’s 1991–2020 climate normals give a useful regional reference for the TRAD station on the mainland in Trat. Mean rainfall there is 419.9 mm in May, 777.2 mm in June, 1,024.1 mm in July, 969.7 mm in August and 816.4 mm in September. The lowest monthly normals are in December (27.8 mm), January (51.1 mm), November (85.2 mm) and February (81.5 mm). These are mainland station averages—not readings from Koh Chang’s beaches and not a forecast for your dates. Compare the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s Koh Chang seasonal overview, its Trat destination and monsoon guidance, and the Thai Meteorological Department’s 1991–2020 climate normals, then check local forecasts and operator notices before a sea trip.

• November to February: generally the less-rainy planning window for beach and boat activities, but check forecasts and holiday demand.
• March to April: hotter; plan shade, water and slower midday activities.
• May to October: wetter regional conditions; keep plans flexible because rain, waves and operator decisions can change the day.

Budget planning for Koh Chang

I would rather help you compare a trip properly than give you a neat-looking price table that pretends every season, room and transfer costs the same. Prices age quickly, and a total can be misleading if it leaves out a pier transfer, a ferry ticket, breakfast or the ride back after dinner. Build your budget around these separate costs:

• Transport from Bangkok: compare coach or minivan, flight plus transfers, and any combined ferry package. Check every included leg.
• Accommodation: compare the exact beach area, room type, breakfast, cancellation terms and how much you will spend reaching food or activities.
• Food: local Thai kitchens, cafés and resort dining can have very different bills. For seafood priced by weight, ask before ordering.
• Activities: confirm whether boat tours include transfers, equipment, park fees, lunch and weather cancellation terms.
• Getting around: include transfers and evening return trips, particularly if staying in a quieter area.
• Season and buffer: allow for holiday demand, weather changes, ferry queues and an extra meal or transfer if plans slip.

For a broader regional comparison, our budget travel guide to Southeast Asia helps frame transport and accommodation choices. Use it as regional context, not as a current Koh Chang price list.

Koh Chang itinerary: 3, 5 or 7 days

If you are travelling as a family, give the arrival and departure days less ambition than the middle of the trip. A ferry queue and a long transfer are already part of the day; they do not need to be followed by a race to tick off a waterfall and a village as well. Choose one main outing, keep room for meals and rest, and let the island’s pace be part of the holiday rather than a problem to solve.

Three days: one beach base

• Day 1: Travel to the island, check in and spend the rest of the day near your chosen beach. Keep the arrival day light.
• Day 2: Visit Klong Plu Waterfall if access and conditions allow, then leave the afternoon for the beach or rest.
• Day 3: Visit Bang Bao or take a suitable boat trip if sea conditions and departure times work, then allow enough time for the ferry and mainland transfer.

Five days: add the south and east coast

• Day 1: Arrive by ferry, settle into your chosen beach area and keep the evening close to your accommodation.
• Day 2: Visit Klong Plu Waterfall if the park is open and conditions are suitable, then spend the afternoon around Klong Prao or your own beach base.
• Day 3: Explore the southern west coast and Bang Bao. Add a boat trip only if its departure and return times fit your day and the sea conditions are suitable.
• Day 4: Set aside a proper day for the east coast, such as Salak Phet and Salak Kok, rather than trying to squeeze it between west-coast stops.
• Day 5: Keep the morning flexible and allow enough time to return to the ferry pier and mainland transfer.

Seven days: build in a slower island day

Use the five-day outline as a starting point, then add a second beach day and a separate boat or snorkelling trip if operators are running and the weather allows. You could also spend longer in one of the quieter southern or eastern areas, or split your stay between two bases if the extra hotel move is worth it. Keep one day flexible for rain, changing sea conditions or simply staying close to the beach. Koh Chang is large and hilly; a seventh day is more useful when it gives you breathing room than when it adds another long drive.

Why Koh Chang is part of our family story

Koh Chang matters to us for reasons beyond travel. I first came to Thailand around 2010, and my connection with Koh Chang grew over the years that followed. My father had restaurants and bars on White Sand Beach, and I spent years living and staying in different parts of the island before Natalia and I met. Since then, Natalia and I have lived in every area of Koh Chang at one point or another, some for longer than others. I know the island very well, especially White Sand Beach and Lonely Beach, but our experience has never been limited to one resort or one stretch of sand.

After my brother died, I took part in a one-day Buddhist ordination on Koh Chang to honour his memory, following my family’s understanding of the eldest son’s role. It was a private act of remembrance, not a tourism activity or something I present as an experience visitors should seek out.

Where Natalia and I began

Natalia and I met on Lonely Beach in 2014. We later lived together on Koh Chang for a year, and our connection with the island grew through day-to-day life across its different areas. We still have friends living on the island and keep in touch with people there. After our current stay in Vietnam, we hope to return to Koh Chang for a holiday in 2027. That is a future plan, not a claim that we have already revisited or checked today’s conditions.

In 2015, a separate chance encounter became part of our family photograph archive. One evening, while we were at the beach and swimming in the sea, the elephant’s caretakers brought a baby elephant down to the water to swim and be washed. We happened to be there too. The photograph shows me beside the elephant at the shoreline. It was not an organised tour or an elephant ride we had booked, and we do not present the encounter as a recommendation for an elephant activity.

Victor was born on Koh Samui in 2016, but Koh Chang remains the place where Natalia and I began our shared story. Another family photograph from our Lonely Beach years shows me holding Victor when he was an infant.

That is the part of Koh Chang I wanted to preserve here: not an exaggerated claim that the island never changes, and not a guide built around private family history, but an honest account of how one place can hold work, memory, love and the beginning of a family. Our photographs and lived experience explain why we care about the island. They do not replace checking the ferry, current access or the sea conditions for your own trip.