Ahi Poke with Ogo Seaweed: Our Home Recipe

Our kitchen, our version

A bowl shaped by our love of sushi

Some meals arrive with a place attached to them; others grow out of tastes collected over time. This bowl belongs to the second kind. We have not visited Hawaiʻi, and we will not pretend otherwise. Our way into poke comes through a long-standing love of sushi and the food we have enjoyed while travelling.

In Russia, some of the sushi we have especially enjoyed has leaned towards the more generous American-style rolls: crisp tempura, mayonnaise-based sauces, plenty of filling and combinations that are unapologetically playful. We enjoy those just as much as more restrained sushi. It is more accurate to call that broad family of rolls American-style or hybrid sushi than to label everything California-style. A California roll is one particular kind of roll, not a name for every sushi combination that uses tempura or mayonnaise. The Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History traces the development of American sushi and the California roll as part of that wider story.

That relaxed, adaptable spirit is part of how we approach poke at home too. Ahi is wonderful when good yellowfin is available, but we do not treat it as the only fish that belongs in a poke bowl. Availability changes from place to place and week to week. We use what we can find fresh and what is genuinely suitable for the way we intend to serve it. Sometimes that means an ahi poke; sometimes it becomes another kind of fish or seafood poke; and, when the ingredients need cooking, it is better described as a cooked seafood or poke-inspired bowl. The name should follow what is actually in the bowl.

It is our interpretation of a dish with a Hawaiian history, not a claim to recreate an island original. That distinction matters to us: the story of poke deserves to be told on its own terms, while a home recipe can still show what we love to cook and eat.

What is ahi poke?

Ahi is the Hawaiian name used for tuna. Poke is commonly pronounced “poh-keh”; the Wehewehe Wikiwiki Hawaiian-language dictionary records the word as meaning to slice or cut crosswise into pieces, including fish. In the dish, the fish is cut into bite-sized pieces and seasoned rather than cooked by heat.

Hawaiian poke is not one frozen formula. The Bishop Museum’s account of poke history describes earlier preparations seasoned with paʻakai (sea salt), ʻinamona (roasted kukui nut) and limu (edible seaweeds), while also noting the variety of ingredients that have entered modern poke, including shoyu and other influences from Japanese cuisine. It also records modern preparations made with fish such as salmon, as well as tako (octopus) and other seafood. Poke has never depended on ahi alone, although ahi is a familiar and much-loved choice. That wider history is why we describe our version as home-style and sushi-inspired, rather than claiming it is the only authentic way to make poke.

For our kitchen, that means staying flexible without being careless. If yellowfin is not available, another fish or seafood may suit a poke preparation, provided the seller can confirm that it has been handled for raw consumption and the product is appropriate for that use. If the fish available is intended to be cooked, we cook it first and make a cooked seafood bowl instead. Freshness matters, but freshness by itself is not a guarantee that seafood is safe to eat raw.

Ogo seaweed: the ingredient that gives this bowl its character

Ogo is an edible red seaweed associated with Hawaiian limu. The University of Hawaiʻi’s edible limu guide identifies ogo as Gracilaria parvispora and explains that it is one of the familiar edible seaweeds in Hawaiʻi. Related Gracilaria seaweeds may be used in similar ways, but a generic seaweed salad is not automatically the same ingredient.

In this bowl, ogo contributes a briny note and a firmer, more substantial bite than the softer seaweed often served in Japanese seaweed salads. Use food-grade ogo from a reputable supplier. Fresh and dried products are prepared differently, so rinse and rehydrate dried ogo according to the package instructions, then drain it well before chopping.

A few ingredient notes

• Ahi tuna: Use yellowfin tuna sold specifically for raw consumption by a reputable fishmonger. The label alone does not remove all risk; see the sourcing notes below.
• Ogo: Rinse and prepare fresh or dried ogo as directed by the supplier. Drain it well so excess water does not dilute the dressing.
• Inamona: This is traditionally made from roasted kukui nut. Crushed roasted macadamia is a practical home substitute when inamona is unavailable, but the flavour is not identical.
• Alaea salt: Hawaiian red salt contributes seasoning and colour. Use the stated amount as a starting point, then adjust only after tasting the finished dressing.
• Soy and sesame: Low-sodium soy sauce keeps the dressing savoury without making it overly dominant. Tamari can be used, but check the bottle if gluten avoidance matters.

Before preparing raw fish

Choosing ahi for poke: what to know before serving it raw

Raw tuna needs more care than an ordinary cooked fish recipe. Buy from a reputable fishmonger who specifically sells the tuna for raw consumption. Ask how it has been handled, kept cold and whether it has been previously frozen. Avoid fish that has not been refrigerated or displayed on fresh ice, and do not rely on colour alone to judge freshness.

The FDA’s seafood safety guidance explains that previously freezing fish can kill parasites that may be present in some species, but freezing does not kill every harmful germ. A “sushi-grade” or “sashimi-grade” label is not a promise that raw fish is risk-free. Tuna also needs reliable time-and-temperature control: the FDA’s scombrotoxin guidance explains that if histamine forms after mishandling, freezing or cooking will not remove it. Keep the fish cold from purchase through preparation and serving, and use clean boards, knives, bowls and hands.

People who are pregnant, young children, older adults and people with weakened immune systems should avoid raw or undercooked fish, as the FDA notes in its raw seafood guidance. For anyone outside those higher-risk groups, raw seafood still carries risk. When the source or cold chain is uncertain, do not serve the tuna raw; choose a cooked fish preparation instead.

Keep the prepared poke refrigerated until serving. The 30-minute rest in this recipe is for seasoning and texture only: soy sauce, salt and seaweed do not cook or preserve the tuna.

How to serve poke, and how we adapt it when ahi is unavailable

For this ahi version, spoon the chilled tuna and ogo over steamed rice, then add cucumber, avocado or thinly sliced radish if you like extra freshness and crunch. A bed of greens works too. Keep additional toppings separate until serving so the fish and seaweed remain the focus.

Poke does not have to stop at ahi

Yellowfin tuna is not always easy to find, and we would rather adapt to what is genuinely good than pretend it is available every time. Modern poke in Hawaiʻi is made with a range of fish and seafood; the Bishop Museum notes examples including salmon and tako. When another fish or seafood is available and has been properly handled and specifically sold for raw consumption, you can make a different fish poke and name it for the ingredient you use. It is no longer ahi poke, but it can still be a poke preparation.

Do not take “fresh” to mean “safe to eat raw”. Ask the fishmonger whether the particular fish has been handled for raw consumption and whether it has been previously frozen where relevant. The FDA explains that freezing can kill some parasites but does not kill all harmful germs, and its safest advice is to cook seafood thoroughly. When the fish you can get is not suitable for raw serving, cook it and build your bowl around cooked fish or seafood. With tofu or another cooked protein, call it a poke-inspired bowl rather than ahi poke.

Simple ingredient swaps

If ogo is unavailable, rehydrated wakame can stand in, although it is softer and brings a different flavour. Crushed roasted macadamia can replace inamona in a home kitchen. Tamari can replace soy sauce when suitable for your dietary needs; check the product label rather than assuming every bottle is gluten-free.

These are practical home adaptations, not claims that every combination is a traditional Hawaiian preparation. The point is to make a thoughtful bowl with ingredients that are available and suitable, while being honest about what it is.