If you want to experience a taste of Southern Thailand uncharted by tourists, this is it. Our story of an inspiring journey to a province of ancient history, incredible food, and profound kindness.
By Oliver & Natalia Mayerhoffer | Updated July 17, 2025
15+ years culinary experience • World Travelers • Family Storytellers
A Friendship Forged: Our Spontaneous Path to the South
Some of life's greatest adventures are the ones you never plan. Our journey to Nakhon Si Thammarat began not with a guidebook, but with a friendship. While living on Koh Samui as our season there came to a close, we met Bank, a talented water sports instructor and tattoo artist with a heart as vast as the ocean he worked on. Our connection was immediate and deep.
Life took a solemn turn when Bank's beloved grandmother, the matriarch of his family and founder of their famous seafood restaurant, passed away. He invited us to his hometown for the ceremonies. We took the invitation as an immense honour—a chance to support a dear friend and for our son, Victor, to learn about the beautiful customs of Thai culture. With no hesitation, we packed a bag and set off, trading our planned itinerary for a journey into the heart of a real Thai family and their incredible community.
An Uncharted Journey Begins
If you would like to experience with us a taste of Southern Thailand uncharted by many tourists, you are in the right place. This is our story of an unforgettable and inspiring time in the beautiful province of Nakhon Si Thammarat. It isn't as popular as other southern Thai destinations like Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, or Krabi, but it's a truly magical place that deserves our very special attention.
As with many of our adventures, this one was spontaneous. The drive from Koh Samui is a journey between worlds. It takes about four hours in total, starting with a 1.5-hour car ferry from the island to Donsak Pier on the mainland. From there, a pleasant 1.5 to 2-hour drive south takes you deep into the province, away from the tourist-centric coastline and into the rhythm of authentic local life. We took the last ferry and arrived quite late, but Bank and his family met us with the warmest of welcomes, showing us to guest rooms at their restaurant. The atmosphere was incredible. The whole family had gathered, with people from all over Thailand coming to celebrate the life of this great woman and chef. It was truly amazing to be part of this gathering, immersed in true Thai culture from the moment we arrived.
The Soul of the South: A Seafood Feast at Tua Tee
The tables at our friend Bank's family restaurant, Tua Tee Seafood (ตัวทีซีฟู้ด), located at F3G6+GMC in the Pak Nakhon sub-district, were consistently laden with the most incredible seafood imaginable. This place is not just a restaurant; it's the heart of a fishing community, and it became the heart of our entire journey. This is a true paradise for seafood lovers. The family owns several oyster farms and their own fishing boats, so the quality is beyond fresh—it's alive.
The Art of Eating Oysters, Southern Thai Style
There is a very specific Thai way of eating oysters that transforms the experience into a culinary ritual. Each plump, glistening oyster is served with a collection of condiments, allowing you to create the perfect bite every single time.
The accompaniments include fresh lime, a fiery chili paste (*nam prik pao*), crispy deep-fried shallots, pungent fresh garlic, and the key ingredient: a local green herb known as **Krathin** (ยอดกระถิน), or White Popinac. This herb brings a unique, slightly bitter flavour that magnificently balances the natural sweetness of the oyster. It's an interactive, explosive flavour experience that defines Nakhon Si Thammarat food.
An Ocean of Flavours on Our Table
The variety of seafood was staggering. We feasted on prawns, lobsters, clams, mussels, squid, and crabs, all caught just hours before. The freshness was unparalleled. From live crabs in a basket to perfectly cooked red swimmers on a plate, the crab was sweet and succulent. The small local clams were a delight, and the prawns were served in every way imaginable.
Prawns were grilled over charcoal, their shells charring and smoking; they were simmered in a rich Tom Yum Goong; and they were fried in a sticky, addictive tamarind sauce. The curries were a revelation. A Southern Thai Panang curry offered a rich, fragrant, and milder counterpoint to the other fiery dishes. The curried fish, packed with fresh herbs, was simply amazing. And the squid, whether fried with fresh chili and garlic or barbecued on a salad, was tender and delicious.
Watch: A Deep Dive into Southern Thai Cuisine
It's one thing to read about the food, but another to see it. To truly appreciate the sheer variety and vibrancy of Southern Thai cuisine, we highly recommend watching this video from food vlogger Mark Wiens. His exploration of a local curry restaurant in the region perfectly captures the overwhelming, delicious chaos of a true Southern Thai food experience.
Adventures Beyond the Feast: Piers, Parks, and Palaces
Our days were filled with more than just food. We explored the local life, the ancient city, and the stunning nature that makes Nakhon Si Thammarat so unique.
Sunrise and Fishing on the Pak Nakhon Pier
We were strongly recommended by our friends to wake up just before sunrise to experience the magical beauty of the place. It was truly incredible. Dozens of fishing boats, small and large, were heading in and out of the sea, coming back with the night's catch. The sunrise colours were absolutely incredible. This pier, the จุดชมวิวอ่าวเมืองนครฯ (Pak Nakhon Bay Viewpoint), became our son Victor's playground. He spent hours with the local children, learning to fish and picking shells and bait fish out of the nets. He was completely obsessed and loved every minute of it.
Exploring the Ancient City and its Natural Wonders
We spent time exploring Nakhon Si Thammarat town and its ancient heritage. The famous Buddhist stupa, Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan, is one of the oldest and most important Buddhist monuments in Southern Thailand. We also took an abrupt adventure into the province's green heart, exploring the stunning waterfalls of Khao Luang National Park. It was amazing swimming in the clean, cold freshwater coming right from the falls. Victor enjoyed feeding and swimming with the fishes there.
A Taste of Modernity: Fine Dining at Day & Night
On our last evening, we experienced the local fine dining scene at Day & Night of Nakhon Si Thammarat, a Michelin-guide-mentioned restaurant. The quality of the food and cocktails was on the highest level, combining local and Western components for an unforgettable experience. It showcased a sophisticated, modern side to the city that thrives for its own people, not for tourists.
The Ultimate Nakhon Si Thammarat Travel Guide
For those inspired to follow in our footsteps, here is a comprehensive, practical guide to help you discover this incredible province.
Why You Should Visit Nakhon Si Thammarat
- Authentic Culture: Experience a slice of real Thai life, from the spiritual gravitas of its ancient temples to the vibrant energy of its local markets.
- Extraordinary Food: This is a paradise for food lovers, renowned for its fiery Southern Thai curries and some of the freshest, most delicious seafood in the country.
- Diverse Landscapes: The province offers a stunning variety of scenery, from the quiet, undeveloped beaches of the Khanom district to the lush, mountainous jungles and waterfalls of Khao Luang National Park.
- Rich History: As a former dominant kingdom of the Malay Peninsula, the city is filled with historical sites, including ancient city walls and one of the most sacred temples in Thailand.
Essential Sights & Experiences
| Attraction | Why It's a Must-See |
|---|---|
| Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan | The spiritual heart of the province and one of the most sacred sites in Southern Thailand. Its towering stupa is a breathtaking sight. |
| Khao Luang National Park | Home to Southern Thailand's highest peak and dozens of stunning waterfalls. A paradise for hikers and nature lovers. |
| Ban Nang Talung Suchart Subsin (Shadow Puppet Museum) | Discover the enchanting traditional art of *nang talung*. A unique and captivating cultural experience. |
| Khanom Beach & Pink Dolphins | Relax on quiet, undeveloped beaches and take a boat trip to spot the area's famous and rare pink dolphins. |
| Kiriwong Village | Hailed as having the "best air in Thailand," this award-winning ecotourism village offers a peaceful escape into rural life and local handicrafts. |
A Final Farewell
Nakhon Si Thammarat truly impressed us with its natural beauty, amazing seafood, great dining, rich culture, and the harmony of its slow rhythm of local life. We only planned on staying a few days, but a week flew by, and we still didn't want to leave. This journey, born from a friend's loss, blossomed into one of the most joyful and profound travel experiences of our lives. It was a powerful lesson in how the most meaningful adventures are often the ones we don't plan.
Frequently Asked Questions about Nakhon Si Thammarat
By Air: The quickest way is to fly into Nakhon Si Thammarat Airport (NST). Several budget airlines like Nok Air and Thai AirAsia offer multiple daily flights from Bangkok's Don Mueang Airport (DMK). The flight takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes.
By Train/Bus: For a more budget-friendly option, overnight trains and buses run from Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai Mai) and Hua Lamphong Railway Station, respectively. The journey takes 12-14 hours.
From Koh Samui/Phangan: You can book combined ferry and bus/van tickets with companies like Lomprayah or Seatran Ferry. The journey takes 3-5 hours depending on connections.
The best time to visit is during the dry season, which runs from January to April. During these months, you can expect sunny skies, less humidity, and ideal conditions for exploring temples, hiking in national parks, and enjoying the coastline. The main rainy season on the Gulf coast is from October to December, which can bring heavy downpours.
Southern Thai cuisine is renowned for its bold, fiery, and complex flavors. Yes, it is generally very spicy—often considered the spiciest regional cuisine in Thailand. Key characteristics include:
- Heat: A very generous use of both fresh and dried chilies.
- Turmeric: Fresh turmeric is a staple, giving many curries a signature yellow hue and earthy flavour.
- Sourness: Tamarind and lime are used to create a sharp, sour counterpoint to the heat.
- Seafood: Being coastal, the cuisine is rich in incredibly fresh fish, prawns, crab, and shellfish.
If you are not used to spicy food, always order "mai phet" (not spicy) or "phet nit noi" (a little spicy).
Yes! The Khanom district, on the coast of Nakhon Si Thammarat, is one of the few places in Thailand where you can see rare Indo-Pacific humpback dolphins, which have a distinctive pinkish color. You can arrange boat trips with local fishermen from Laem Prathap or Khanom Pier to see them. Sightings are not guaranteed and depend on weather and luck, but the best chance is usually early in the morning on a calm day.
Yes, Nakhon Si Thammarat is very safe for tourists. It is a peaceful province with friendly locals and a very low crime rate. Standard travel precautions should be taken, as you would anywhere, such as being aware of your belongings in crowded places. The atmosphere is much more laid-back and less commercialized than in major tourist hubs.
About the Authors
Oliver & Natalia Mayerhoffer are passionate cooks, storytellers, and world travelers. Together with their son, Victor, they have explored the flavors and cultures of more than 50 countries. For them, food is about connection—to people, to culture, and to the stories that are shared around the kitchen table. They created Mangoes & Palm Trees to share those edible stories with the world.
